Peptides Used In Cosmetics

According to the Mordor Intelligence research, the cosmeceutical market as a whole is expected to grow 8.24% YoY (year over year) and hit $18 billion in turnover in 2024 alone. With such figures, it’s not at all surprising that new formulas and mixtures are being concocted daily; not only that, the market is “demanding” new, revolutionary ingredients to enter it and lead the cosmeceutical charge into the new era.

One such ingredient is peptides. Though peptides are naturally produced within the body, there has been a growing trend of producing synthetic ones. And cosmetic peptides soon followed.

But before we dive into the world of cosmetic peptides, let’s first talk about peptides themselves…

What Are Peptides?

Essentially, peptides are short strings of amino acids. But if both peptides and proteins are built up of amino acids, what’s the difference between them? Simply put, peptides are shorter and their structure is simpler, as compared to proteins; for this reason, they are smaller and absorbed quicker.

Though peptides may seem like a recent “discovery,” scientists have been using them in treatments for over 100 years! In fact, one of the most well-known peptides is a 51-amino-acid long one you might have heard of – insulin!

Also, peptides offer the following advantages:

More potent and effective because they bind to the specific/required receptors
Offer fewer side effects and
Body breaks them down faster with little to no byproducts

What Are The Peptide’s Effects In Cosmetology?

When talking about the common reasons researchers want to incorporate peptides into a cosmetic product, it comes down to these:

Anti wrinkle effect
Protection and
Hydration

Cosmetic Peptides Mechanism Of Action

Cosmetic peptides act in our body through 4 distinct mechanisms:

Signaling – peptides can act as signaling molecules which send instructions (signals) to certain cells within our body, prompting them to a certain action. One such action might be to stimulate collagen production (which provides structure, strength and support within our skin).
Carrying – besides signaling, peptides can also act as carriers and actually deliver certain elements straight to the cell “in need”. This action is crucial in certain situations where a wound needs to be healed or skin repaired.
Enzyme inhibition – there are certain enzymes within our body that break down collagen and other structural proteins within the skin. Peptides can act as inhibitors to these enzymes and help maintain the structure of the skin longer.
Neurotransmitting inhibition – this is a particularly interesting mechanism of action since some peptides act in a way to inhibit the neurotransmitters that cause muscle contractions. This allows them to mimic the effects of botox, hence the enormous interest.

Peptides Used In Hair Care

When talking about the cosmetic industry and the peptide’s effects on the skin, we must talk about hair care as well. It’s worth noting, though, that treatment in beauty salons are/should be carried out by cosmetologist professionals who will assess your condition first and then apply appropriate therapy.

Of course, there is a huge movement in attempting to migrate these hair salon treatments to at-home ones. There is some success there, with the latest hair thickening and strengthening serums coming to the market. It remains to be seen how successful and effective these will turn out to be.

Cosmetic Peptides Delivery Systems

At the beginning of the article we said that peptides are smaller than proteins which helps the body absorb them more easily. But, absorbing cosmetic peptides on their own might still prove to be a difficult task, which is its best to have a delivery system; not just for the absorption, but to enhance its stability and ability to penetrate the skin.

Three of the most common peptides delivery systems are:

Liposomes – liposomes are small, spherical vesicles intended to encapsulate the peptide while it penetrates the skin. This encapsulation will prevent it from deteriorating before reaching the intended skin layer.
Nanoemulsions – nanoemulsions are fine oil-in-water emulsions that protect and allow for better peptide absorption.
Microneedling – a bit more invasive delivery method, compared to the previous two, where microchannels are created in the skin, allowing peptides to penetrate much more efficiently.

Regulatory Status

Most legislation and regulations revolve around the intended use of peptide-derived products, not so much of the ingredients.

Also, when speaking about peptides used in cosmetics, or cosmeceuticals, we’re walking a fine line since these producers might be perceived as both cosmetics and drugs. Cosmetic ingredients are defined as those that “cleanse, beautify and alter appearance”. Drugs are defined as substances for treating or preventing diseases in humans.

So, how do we make the distinction? Well, you need to look at the claims labeled on the product packaging. If the claim says the product is intended to treat or prevent disease, we can classify it as a drug; if it says it’s for cleansing and altering appearance, we can be sure it’s a cosmetic.

References:

Insights into Bioactive Peptides in Cosmetics by Le Thi Nhu Ngoc, Ju-Young Moon, and Young-Chul Lee Cosmetics 2023, 10(4), 111; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040111
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